THE RISE OF VETEMENTS

Vetements is undeniably out of the bag.

The collective of 18 designers, helmed by Demna Gvasalia – who has recently been appointed as creative director at Balenciaga - are seemingly fashion’s new darlings. And I don’t know if I am happy or saddened by that. I “discovered” them – although, that in itself is a pompous notion – a few seasons ago and was deliciously savoring them to myself, relishing in their raw and angst-riddled appeal. The clothes reeked in subculture and attitude, steeped in grubby glamorous grit, which is as much anti-fashion as it is fashion. While their name is simply “Vetements” – in itself a generic phrase, there is really nothing humble in the simplicity and democratic offering they have on show. Vetements has created something that is so desirable for the fact that is so subversive and devoid of all the polish, glitz and fanfare that have defined the scene for so long.

Whilst some may say that it’s a matter of styling versus the craft of design, it takes a fair share of design credibility to make things seem so nonchalant, so seemingly thrown together – the artful cool of disorder that has been missing for awhile. Those stitched up jeans that are hacked up the front, the oversized hoodies, granny dresses and odd proportions all feel weirdly relevant, and extremely cool. A backlash to the high octane, constructed mainstream vision of the fashion circuit.

As the brand grows and develops, the challenge will inherently be in maintaining its independent, subversive, cultish chord – the spit in the face of conventional beauty – without transpiring into infantile rebellion.

Its going to be an exciting journey to watch un-fold, especially in conjunction with Gvasalia at the helm of Balenciaga.

A new breath of pissed-off air is definitely in the wind.